Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
